Banzeiro is the city's most ambitious kitchen — chef Felipe Schaedler has spent more than a decade reworking Amazonian ingredients with restaurant-grade technique. The menu rotates with the river and the seasons: tucunaré with tucupi and jambu, pirarucu confit, manioc stews, sorbets of cupuaçu and bacuri. Schaedler's commitment to sourcing from riverine communities is unusually rigorous.
The room is small and bookings are essential. There is a second branch in São Paulo, but the original — facing a quiet street in Nossa Senhora das Graças, in the Adrianópolis area — is the one to visit. Expect São Paulo prices for a Manaus dinner.