Tambaqui de Banda takes its name from the dish it does best: a side of tambaqui (the prized Amazonian fish) split flat, salted, and grilled whole over charcoal. The restaurant occupies a covered open-air space in the working-class Japiim neighbourhood, with long shared tables, paper tablecloths and pitchers of beer.
The grill works through what feels like a whole school of tambaqui on busy nights. Order one fish per two people, with sides of fried banana, farofa, and the vinaigrette of tomato, onion, and coriander. Cash makes life easier.