The Bar da Dona Onça occupies a ground-floor space on the long curving arcade of Niemeyer's Copan building and is the closest thing modern São Paulo has to a great working bar-restaurant. Chef Janaina Rueda — who, with her ex-husband Jefferson Rueda, founded the institution — cooks Brazilian comfort food at the upper end: the city's most-talked-about feijoada (Saturdays), a coxinha at the bar that arrives wrapped in proper paper, slow-cooked pork shoulder with farofa, and a long pudim list.
The room is plain, the bar is the centre of gravity, and the lunch crowd at the long counter is half centro office workers, half visiting food press from elsewhere. Saturday feijoada is the booking to make. Walk-in is fine on weekdays.