Mindelo is the cultural capital of Cape Verde and one of the most appealing small cities in West Africa. Set around a wide natural harbor on Sao Vicente, it has a faded colonial elegance -- pastel buildings around the Palacio do Povo, cobblestone streets, a waterfront promenade -- and a music scene that punches absurdly above its weight. This is where Cesaria Evora grew up, and live music still pours out of bars and clubs every weekend night. Morna, coladeira, funana -- you can hear it all within a few blocks.
The city is compact and walkable. The fish market on the waterfront is lively in the morning. The Praca Nova, the main square, is the social hub. The neighborhood around Rua de Lisboa has the best concentration of restaurants and bars. For a view across the bay to Santo Antao, walk up to the Fortim d'El-Rei above the harbour. Mindelo's carnival in February is widely considered the best in Africa -- smaller than Rio's, obviously, but full of energy, color, and music.
Mindelo is also the gateway to Santo Antao. The ferry from the port to Porto Novo runs multiple times daily and takes about 50 minutes.