☰Jamestown

The oldest part of Accra, a tightly packed Ga fishing quarter that grew up around the British James Fort in the seventeenth century. It is poor, loud, and one of the most rewarding parts of the city to walk: colonial-era shopfronts, fishing pirogues drawn up on the sand, kids playing football in the lanes, and a thriving street-art scene that anchors the annual Chale Wote festival every August. Go with a local guide if you can; cameras are tolerated but ask before photographing people.