Morocco is one of the most rewarding countries in the world to travel — and one of the most intense. Within a few hours you can move from a UNESCO-listed medieval medina to a Saharan sand dune to a snowcapped mountain village. The country rewards slow travel and repeat visits. Here's what not to miss.
The medina of Fez is arguably the most extraordinary urban environment in the Arab world. Fes el-Bali is the largest car-free medieval city on earth: a dense, living maze of thousands of alleys, artisan workshops, mosques, and fondouks (old caravanserais). Walking into it without a guide on the first day is a near-guarantee of being completely lost. That's part of the point. The tanneries visible from certain rooftop terraces — great stone vats of colour — are as extraordinary as they look in photographs. See Fez.
Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakech is the great public theatre of Morocco, and possibly of the whole Mediterranean world. By day it's a market; by evening it transforms into a sprawling carnival of storytellers, musicians, acrobats, and food stalls. The smoke from the grill stalls at dusk is worth experiencing at least once. The surrounding souks are labyrinthine and inexhaustible. See Marrakech.
The Saharan dunes at Merzouga (Erg Chebbi) are the Morocco of postcards — but they earn it. The dunes rise up to 150 metres and glow orange and red at sunrise and sunset. Camel treks and overnight camps in Berber tents are thoroughly commercialized at this point, but even so the landscape is genuinely spectacular. See Merzouga.
Chefchaouen in the Rif Mountains is Morocco's most photogenic town: a compact blue-painted medina tumbling down a hillside. It's calmer and less hassle-ridden than Fez or Marrakech, which is exactly why so many travellers end up staying longer than planned. See Chefchaouen.
The Draa Valley and pre-Saharan south — a route through Ouarzazate, Zagora, and the Draa palmeraies — is Morocco at its most cinematic. Mud kasbahs, palm groves, and the slow approach of the Sahara. The road from Ouarzazate to Zagora is one of the most beautiful in the country.
Essaouira is the antidote to the intensity of Marrakech. A Portuguese-walled Atlantic port with consistent wind (it's a world-class kitesurfing destination), excellent seafood, and a relaxed creative atmosphere. Blue boats in the harbour, ramparts at sunset, argan oil everywhere. See Essaouira.
The High Atlas — particularly the Toubkal circuit — offers serious trekking in North Africa's highest range. Jebel Toubkal (4,167m) is achievable without technical climbing skills in summer, though acclimatization matters. The village of Imlil is the starting point for most Toubkal expeditions. The area around Tafraoute in the Anti-Atlas is quieter and less visited, with spectacular granite landscapes.
Volubilis — the best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco, near Meknes — is genuinely impressive: mosaic floors, triumphal arches, and sweeping views across the plain. Easily combined with a visit to the pilgrimage town of Moulay Idriss.