☰Tafraoute

Tafraoute has no bars — alcohol is not widely available in this conservative mountain town. What it does have are good cafes, mostly on the main square and the terrace of the Hotel des Amandiers overlooking the valley. These are the natural gathering points for watching the day unfold over the pink granite peaks.

The Voices of Marrakesh by Elias Canetti — Nobel laureate's impressionistic account of a journey through Morocco in 1954; though focused on Marrakesh, it captures the sensory world of the country that surrounds Tafraoute.

Lords of the Atlas by Gavin Maxwell — the rise and fall of the Glaoui clan of the High Atlas, packed with violence and intrigue; vivid on the Berber world of southern Morocco in the first half of the twentieth century.

In Morocco by Edith Wharton — written in 1919, an account of travel through Morocco that captures the country at a moment of transition; elegant prose and sharp observation.

Tiznit (90km northwest) — a walled town known for its silver jewellery workshops and the medina built in 1882; a good half-day outing and the nearest town of any size.

Agadir (165km northwest) — the coastal resort city, rebuilt after the 1960 earthquake; useful for transport connections, supermarkets, and the beach if you need a break from the mountains.

Igherm and the Aït Baha Road — the mountain road south from Tafraoute through Igherm to Taroudant is one of the most spectacular drives in the Anti-Atlas; dramatic gorges and passes, mostly paved. Igherm itself has a weekly souk.

Anti-Atlas villages — hire a car or arrange a guide to explore the network of villages in the valleys around Tafraoute: Aït Mansour gorge (30km south), with its ancient kasbah and palm-lined river, is one of the finest half-day excursions in the area.

Tafraoute's restaurants are small, unfussy, and serve honest Moroccan food. Tagine is the staple — lamb with prunes and almonds, or chicken with preserved lemon and olives. Couscous is served on Fridays. Prices are low and portions generous. Most restaurants are clustered around the main square and the road heading toward the Hotel des Amandiers.

The town is very small, just go on foot. If you want to explore the region, the best thing is to rent a bike. You can rent bikes at the Maison Touareg Carpet store, which is on the road to the Hotel des Amandiers.

There are busses going to most places north, almost all of them take the road to Tiznit. There are two to three buses a day. Book in advance, the offices of all the lines are in the main street.

You can take a grand taxi to Tiznit as well and from there find a bus or a grand taxi onwards.

Tafraoute has several carpet shops selling Berber and Touareg rugs — Maison Tuareg and Maison Berbere are the largest, warehouse-style operations. For a more personal experience, smaller shops in the centre of town offer local crafts and handmade belgha slippers.

Tafraoute's main attractions are the landscapes surrounding the town. The Ameln Valley, with its 26 Berber villages, rewards days of exploration on foot or by bike, while the Painted Rocks offer a surreal detour into land art.

The best time to visit Tafraoute is February to April, when the almond trees are in blossom and wildflowers carpet the valley floors. Late January can catch the almond blossom at its peak — a spectacular show of pink and white against the granite boulders. Temperatures are mild at this time of year, ideal for hiking and cycling.

October and November are also excellent: the summer heat has broken, the air is clear, and the light on the rocks is extraordinary. Avoid July and August, when temperatures regularly exceed 40°C and the town empties of independent travellers. December and January can be cold at night — Tafraoute sits at around 1,000m — but the days are usually sunny.