Gboko

Tiv cultural centre in Benue State, with a royal palace and hills east of town.

Gboko is one of the main towns of Benue State and the traditional centre of the Tiv people. It is a busy commercial place, but the reason to visit is cultural rather than practical: the Tor Tiv, the highest traditional ruler of the Tiv, has his palace here.

The town works best as a short stop for travellers already moving through Benue. Mkar Hill rises east of town and gives Gboko its outdoor anchor, while the Tor Tiv Palace and J.S. Tarka Tomb explain some of the politics and identity of Tiv country.

Do not expect a polished tourist town. Roads and transport can be rough, and arrangements are easier with a local contact. Still, Gboko has enough substance to reward a spare day if you are already in the region.