Cross the small passenger ferry from beside the Kivukoni fish market and you land on Kigamboni — the southern bank of the harbour, much less developed than the city proper. From the ferry slip, a bajaji ride of fifteen minutes south brings you to a series of broad sand beaches stretching down to Mjimwema and beyond, with a handful of modest beach hotels and weekend bars.
Sundays are busy with families up from the city; weekdays are deserted. The ferry crossing itself is half the fun — the boat is small, packed with vendors and commuters, and the view of the harbour with dhows and old container ships is one of the more memorable journeys in Dar. Take cash; the ferry is so cheap it almost is not worth charging for, but the bajaji and the beach bars are.