Pemba is for divers, slow travellers, and people who want the Swahili Coast without the resort scrum of Zanzibar. The diving — pelagics over the wall at Misali, schooling fish in the channels — is among the best in East Africa. On land there is the Ngezi-Vumawimbi forest, the Pujini ruins of an early sultan's fortress, the spice farms, and the three small towns of Chake-Chake, Wete, and Mkoani. Nothing happens fast.