Pemba is a quiet island just north of Zanzibar, less visited and quite different in character. Mangrove forests line much of the shore, while the interior is covered by dense rainforest and clove plantations — Pemba has historically produced a large share of the world's cloves. There is little tourist infrastructure, and that is largely the point.
The island has a reputation among divers as one of the best sites in East Africa, with steep walls and strong currents bringing large pelagic fish close to shore. A diving centre operates out of the island's small resort cluster. Outside the water, Wete on the north coast has a few guesthouses at around $10 a night and a relaxed local atmosphere.
Getting here requires patience: regular slow ferries from Zanzibar take six to eight hours and cost around $20. There is an occasional service to Tanga on the mainland, and it is generally possible to find a dhow heading to Mombasa if you ask around.