The diplomatic and elite-housing neighbourhood north of the Kabul river — wide gridded streets, large walled compounds, the former embassies of half the world. For two decades it was the foreign-bubble district, and the streets remember it: concrete blast walls, surviving Kabul-style fortified gates, signs in Persian and English. With the diplomatic missions mostly gone, it is much quieter than it used to be.
It is still where the city's wealthier Afghan families live, and the better restaurants and a couple of remaining trade businesses are here. Worth a slow walk in daylight — many of the houses are interesting examples of mid-century Kabul villa architecture — and a useful base if you are passing through with an organised tour.