Xiamen divides naturally into two main spaces: Gulangyu Island, where you go for colonial architecture, quiet lanes, and music culture; and Xiamen Island itself, where the university campus, Buddhist temple, and coastal road give the city its character. The two together make a very satisfying two or three days. Beyond the obvious draws, Xiamen rewards slow walking: the Zhongshan Road pedestrian area, the old Shapowei art district, and the waterfront around Huli are all worth time.