Khanyar

Khanyar is one of the old city neighbourhoods north of Lal Chowk, taking its name from the traditional wicker workers (khanyars) who once clustered here. The neighbourhood is home to Roza Bal, the shrine that attracted international attention with its controversial Jesus-burial claim, and the Dastgeer Sahib shrine. It is also one of the better-preserved areas of traditional wooden urban architecture in the old city.

The streets here are narrow enough that two people can barely walk abreast, and the upper floors of old houses overhang the lanes, meeting almost in the middle. The neighbourhood has a strong local identity and is more everyday in character than the tourist-oriented areas around Lal Chowk — people are going about ordinary business, not selling things to visitors. Exploring it requires no particular plan: walk north from the main road, take any lane that interests you, and navigate by the sound of the Jhelum to your west. The walk from Roza Bal to Dastgeer Sahib to the river at Habba Kadal takes about an hour at a wandering pace.

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