The largest of the Dal Lake gardens in terms of drama, Nishat Bagh rises in twelve terraces from the lake shore up the steep slope of the Zabarwan Hills. Built in 1633 by Asaf Khan, the brother-in-law of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, it is named the "Garden of Gladness" and the name fits: the view from the upper terraces — over the lake, across to the city, and south to the Pir Panjal range — is the finest elevated panorama in Srinagar. The central channel descends through all twelve levels, cascading from fountain to fountain.
Come early in the morning when the gates open to have the lower terraces largely to yourself. The upper terraces require a bit of climbing but the views justify every step. In spring (April–May) the beds are full of irises and roses; in autumn the chinar trees that line the terraces turn vivid orange. The garden is on the eastern shore of Dal Lake, south of Shalimar Bagh, about 11 km from the city centre. It is easily combined with Shalimar Bagh in a half-day excursion.