Pura Mangkunegaran

The Pura Mangkunegaran is Solo's second royal palace and, many visitors find, the more rewarding of the two. The main pendopo — the great open audience hall — is one of the largest in Java, its roof supported by 64 teak columns and its floor spread with a single priceless antique carpet. The ceiling is painted with the Javanese calendar of sacred days.

The palace museum holds a collection of royal regalia, gold jewellery, masks, wayang puppets, and ceremonial weapons. The collection is particularly strong on batik, with examples of the specific Solo court patterns — the sogan browns and cream — that distinguish it from Yogyakarta's more graphic style. Guided tours are available and worth taking for the context they provide.

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A story
The Mangkunegaran was established as a separate principality in 1757, carved out of the already-divided Mataram kingdom by a third branch of the royal family after a further rebellion. The founding prince, Raden Mas Said, had spent years fighting both the Dutch and his own relatives before accepting a compromise title. His descendants have governed the principality ever since and built one of the finest museum collections in Java.

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