Banjarese cuisine is built around fish — from the rivers and the sea — prepared with spices that show the region's long trade connections with Java and the Arab world. The signature dish is Soto Banjar, a clear, lightly spiced chicken broth served with rice cake (ketupat) and hard-boiled egg, eaten for breakfast across the city. Nasi Kuning (yellow rice with turmeric) is the other staple.
For Soto Banjar, the floating food vendors on the river markets are the traditional setting — try it on a klotok trip at dawn. The area around the Sabilal Muhtadin Mosque has clusters of simple restaurants and warungs (food stalls). The night market at Kampung Melayu, which sets up in the evenings along the riverside, is a good place to sample grilled fish and Banjarese snacks at low prices.