The gem market in Martapura is one of the most unusual shopping experiences in Kalimantan. The town has been a diamond-trading centre for centuries, and the main market — the Pasar Batu Permata — is dedicated almost entirely to the trade in rough and cut stones. Stalls sell diamonds, sapphires, amethysts, and other gems mined from the river deposits of South Kalimantan.
The quality and value of what's on offer varies enormously, and buying gems requires knowledge. Even without intending to purchase, the market is fascinating to walk through — the concentration of sellers, the small plastic bags of stones, the intense scrutiny of buyers and sellers, and the surrounding context of a town that has lived off this trade for generations. Martapura is about 40km from Banjarmasin on the main road; minibuses run regularly from the city.