The Musi River is the reason Palembang exists. The city straddles both banks for about ten kilometres, and the river itself remains a working artery, busy with motorised long-tail boats, freighters bringing rubber and palm oil down from the interior, and ramshackle wooden houseboats moored along the shore.
The standard way to see it is by ketek — small wooden river taxi — from the jetties just east of the Ampera Bridge. A one-hour cruise typically takes in Kuto Besak, the floating market at Pasar 16 Ilir, Kemaro Island with its Chinese pagoda, and a swing back under the bridge. Negotiate the price at the jetty before boarding.