Nias Island sits in the Indian Ocean off the west coast of Sumatra, about 125 kilometres from the mainland. It is one of Indonesia's most remarkable destinations: a place of ancient stone-paved villages, traditional architecture, warrior culture, and some of the finest surf breaks in the world.
The island divides naturally between north and south. The main town is Gunungsitoli in the north, which is the transport hub and has most of the practical infrastructure. The south is where most travellers head: the village of Bawomataluo, perched on a hilltop, has the most impressive traditional houses and is famous for its stone-jumping ceremony (fahombo), in which young men leap over a nearly two-metre stone pillar as a rite of passage. The beaches and surfing are centred around Lagundri and Sorake in the far south.
Outside the surf season (June and July, when the swells are most consistent), Nias is quiet. That is not a bad thing — the interior villages, the stone paths, and the traditional bale (clan meeting houses) deserve unhurried attention.