The Azari is one of Tehran's oldest surviving tea houses, a subterranean space near the Grand Bazaar that has been serving tea, water pipes, and traditional food since the late 19th century. The current space is a vaulted brick basement with carved stucco and decorative tilework from the Qajar period, and the atmosphere of entering it — descending from the noise of the bazaar lanes into a dim, aromatic room where men sit on benches drinking tea — is genuinely time-transporting.
Food is available but secondary to the atmosphere: simple stews, bread, and the ritual of tea. The water pipes (qalyun) are part of the original character of the place; whether they remain available depends on current regulations. Even if you only have tea, it is worth coming here.