Gilaneh specialises in the cuisine of Gilan province on the Caspian coast — a distinct regional cooking tradition that uses rice, fresh herbs, sour citrus, and walnut extensively, and which many Iranians consider the finest in the country. The restaurant is in northern Tehran, where the Gilani community is concentrated, and it serves the kind of food that people from Gilan eat when they are homesick: mirza ghasemi (roasted aubergine with egg, garlic, and tomato), baghali ghatogh (broad bean stew with dill and egg), and an extraordinary range of herb-stuffed rice dishes.
If you have only one non-kebab Iranian meal in Tehran, make it Gilani food. The flavours are complex, the herbs are fresh, and the Caspian culinary tradition is entirely unlike the more familiar Persian cooking of central Iran.