Higashi Chaya Geisha District

Higashi Chaya, the largest of Kanazawa's three geisha districts, is a single preserved street of two-storey wooden teahouses. The facades are distinctive: narrow latticed windows, dark-stained wood, and low eaves. The street was established in 1820 when the Maeda clan licensed geisha entertainments here, and many of the buildings date from that period.

Several of the teahouses are open as museums or upscale cafes where you can drink green tea and eat traditional sweets. The street is best visited in the late afternoon and evening, when the light is softer and occasionally a geiko appears heading to work. The Shima Teahouse is the most complete preserved example and worth visiting for its interior.

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Kanazawa has three geisha districts — Higashi (East), Nishi (West), and Kazue-machi — and all three are still active. The geisha here are called geiko, as in Kyoto rather than Tokyo, and the tradition is taken seriously. The teahouses where they entertain are not open to unintroduced visitors, but you may see a geiko hurrying between appointments in the early evening.

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