Matsumoto is a compact, appealing city in the Japanese Alps of Nagano Prefecture, best known for its original sixteenth-century castle — one of just twelve in Japan with a surviving keep. The black-walled fortress reflected in its moat, with the Northern Alps rising behind it, is one of the most photographed sights in central Japan.
Beyond the castle, the former merchant district of Nakamachi is worth a wander — whitewashed storehouses converted into craft shops, sake bars, and cafes — and the parallel lane of Nawate-dōri along the Metoba river is studded with frog statues and antique stalls. The city has a young, cosmopolitan feel thanks to its university and its role as a gateway to the mountains. The Japan Ukiyo-e Museum on the outskirts holds one of the world's largest collections of woodblock prints, and the City Museum of Art is built around a permanent display of Yayoi Kusama, born here in 1929.
Matsumoto makes an excellent base for exploring the Alps. Kamikōchi, the spectacular mountain valley that is one of Japan's finest hiking destinations, is about two hours away by train and bus. Closer at hand, Asama Onsen is a hot spring district reachable by a short bus ride, and the wasabi farms around Hotaka are a pleasant half-day trip by local train.