Opened in 1925 and probably the oldest cafe in Kyushu, Tsuru-chan is the place to try Turkish rice — a single plate combining pilaf, spaghetti with meat sauce, and a tonkatsu cutlet. The dish has no connection to Turkey and was apparently invented here in the 1950s. Locals also come for the milk shakes (with real milk poured over crushed ice) and the retro Showa-era atmosphere — checkered floors, wooden booths, an old jukebox in the corner. On the Hamanmachi shopping arcade, easy to find and rarely so crowded you cannot get a table.