Founded in 1642 and operating in Maruyama almost continuously since, Kagetsu is the senior ryotei in the city — a Japanese-Dutch fusion banquet restaurant that has hosted Sakamoto Ryoma, Itō Hirobumi, and countless other figures from the Bakumatsu period. The fixed-course shippoku ryori is the speciality: a sequence of dishes set out simultaneously on a round red lacquer table, mixing Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese, and Japanese techniques. Dinner is expensive and requires advance booking; lunch is cheaper and more accessible. Worth the splurge once if you want a real taste of what Edo-period Maruyama was like.