When to Go

The Seto Inland Sea is one of the driest, sunniest parts of Japan, and Takamatsu's climate is correspondingly mild. April for the cherry blossom in Ritsurin and Tamamo-koen; late May to June for the irises; November for the maple colours at Ritsurin, which are among the best in western Japan.

Summers are hot and humid but rarely as oppressive as Tokyo; winters are mild and almost free of snow. The Setouchi Triennale, held in roughly six-month windows across three years (spring, summer, autumn of the triennale year), is the busiest time, with hotel rooms in town becoming hard to get; check the dates if your trip coincides.