Aqtau ("White Cliff"), formerly known as Shevchenko, sits on the eastern coast of the Caspian Sea in western Kazakhstan. It is the main port city of the Mangystau region, with a harbour serving ferries and cargo ships, an international airport, and a growing number of western-standard hotels — all driven by the oil and gas industry in the surrounding steppe.
Most of the city was built by the Soviets and consists of numbered microdistricts of concrete apartment blocks. It is not a beautiful place, but the Caspian seafront promenade and the beach make it pleasant enough in summer. The real reason to come here is the extraordinary desert landscape of the Mangystau region: underground mosques, dramatic chalk canyons, and the eerie Bozzhyra Valley are all reachable as day trips.
Aqtau is also a transit point for the Caspian ferry to Baku, Azerbaijan — an adventurous and unpredictable crossing with no fixed schedule.