Keningau is a small town in the interior of Sabah, in Malaysian Borneo, set on a wide plateau in the Crocker Range and reached by a spectacularly windy road over the mountains from Kota Kinabalu. It is the administrative centre of the Interior Division and home to an ethnically mixed population of Kadazan-Dusun, Murut, Chinese and Malay — the Sunday tamu (open-air market) is the best place in the state to see all four communities trading fresh jungle produce, dried river fish, smoked meats and handicrafts under the same roof.
There is not much to detain a traveller in Keningau itself, but it is a useful base for trips deeper into the Murut heartland — the longhouses around Sapulut and Nabawan, the Rafflesia Forest Reserve in the Crocker Range foothills, and the cross-Borneo road to Tenom and the North Borneo Railway. The old Japanese wartime pillboxes on the edge of town are a tangible reminder of the brutal occupation of the interior during the Second World War.