In the evenings, a row of open-air grilling stalls sets up along the waterfront esplanade. Whole fish — tuna, tanigue (Spanish mackerel), maya-maya (red snapper) — are grilled over charcoal and served with rice, sawsawan (vinegar-soy dipping sauce), and sliced tomatoes. It is simple, inexpensive, and one of the most pleasant ways to eat in Maasin: a cold San Miguel in hand, a sea breeze off the bay, and boats moving in and out of the port. The stalls are informal; just walk up, pick your fish by weight, and wait while it grills.