Small Andaman island off Ranong, known for long beaches and a cashew-growing interior.
Koh Phayam is a small island in the Andaman Sea off the coast of Ranong province, in southern Thailand. It is less developed and far quieter than the big-name Thai islands — no ATMs until recently, limited electricity, and a pace of life set by the tides and the cashew harvest.
The island is known for its long, fine white-sand beaches — Ao Yai (Long Beach) on the west side gets the sunsets — and for the cashew nuts grown in the interior. A small community of Chao Le (sea gypsies) lives on the eastern shore at Ao Khao Kwai, fishing the traditional way. The surrounding waters are protected as Mu Ko Phayam National Park, with coral reefs accessible by longtail boat.
Getting here involves a boat from Ranong, either a speedboat (about 45 minutes) or a slow boat (two hours). There are bungalows and guesthouses scattered along the beaches, most of them simple. The island is small enough to explore by motorbike or bicycle, and the best season to visit is November through April, when the seas are calm and the weather dry.
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Beaches
Koh Phayam has the kind of white-sand beaches and live coral reefs that southern Thailand used to have before the crowds arrived. The island has no cars — only motorcycles and bicycles on narrow tracks — and no mains electricity in most areas, just small resorts and simple bungalow accommodation.
The two main beaches are Ao Khao Kwai (Buffalo Bay) and Ao Yai (Long Beach). Even in high season from November to April, the beaches are uncrowded, and you can usually find a stretch entirely to yourself.
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Getting There
Koh Phayam is reached by boat from Ranong, the nearest mainland town. Speedboats make the crossing in about 45 minutes; the slow ferry takes around two hours. Ranong itself is a 9-10 hour bus journey from Bangkok (overnight buses are available), or you can fly to Ranong Airport from Bangkok on small aircraft, though schedules are limited.
From the south, Ranong is about 2.5 hours from Chumphon and accessible from Phuket in about 5 hours by road. The boats typically depart in the morning and early afternoon; check times locally as they vary by season and conditions. There are no cars on the island — transport within Koh Phayam is by motorbike (rentable from guesthouses) or longtail boat.
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When to Go
The best time to visit Koh Phayam is November through April, when the northeast monsoon keeps the Andaman side calm and the skies clear. This is also the cashew harvest season, which peaks in March and April. The island is at its most beautiful and accessible in these months, and most guesthouses and restaurants are open.
May through October is the southwest monsoon season — seas on the west coast can be rough and ferry services from Ranong may be reduced or cancelled in bad weather. Some businesses close for the season and the island empties considerably. Experienced travellers who like quiet and don't mind occasional rain can find good value and genuine solitude in the shoulder months of May and October.
