Nan is a lovely old capital in the far north of Thailand, set in a broad river valley close to the Lao border. It has the temples, teak houses, and layered history of the Lanna north, but without the busloads and souvenir pressure that can flatten better-known towns.
The centre is compact enough to do slowly. Wat Phumin is the great reason to come, not just for its unusual cruciform chapel but for murals that show ordinary Tai Lue life with a warmth rare in temple painting. Across the street, the Nan National Museum gives the old principality its context, from ethnic textiles to local Buddha images.
Nan works best if you give it a full day rather than treat it as a road stop. Start around the museum and temple cluster, climb or drive out to Wat Phra That Khao Noi for the view, then cross the river to Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, the province's most sacred shrine. The surrounding mountains are beautiful, but the town itself earns its place.