A neighbourhood-Italian-of-the-future kind of place: small, plain, beautifully run, in a converted heritage shopfront on Murray Street. Chef-owners Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi cook short, seasonal menus of handmade pasta (pappardelle with wallaby ragù; chitarra with sea urchin), wood-fired secondi, and unfussy vegetable courses. Almost everything is made in-house.
The wine list runs Italian-deep with strong Tasmanian and Etna sections. Service is warm and unhurried. Booking essential. Fico's sister venue Sonny (across the street, more casual) is the same kitchen's pizza-and-pasta dining room and is great for lunch.