Esperance's main attraction is its coastline — specifically the sequence of beaches along the Great Ocean Drive and the national parks to the east. Budget at least two days to see the key spots properly.
The Great Ocean Drive is a 40km self-drive loop from the town that passes half a dozen of the area's best beaches. Start early to avoid afternoon heat and to have the white sand to yourself.
Cape Le Grand National Park is 50km east and holds Lucky Bay — regularly cited as Australia's whitest beach and famous for the kangaroos that lounge on the sand. Thistle Cove and Hellfire Bay within the park are equally beautiful and quieter. The park also has good hiking; the Frenchman Peak walk (2–3 hours return) has excellent views from the summit.
In town, the Municipal Museum displays the most improbable collection of Skylab debris anywhere on earth — NASA's space station fell over Western Australia in 1979 and Esperance collected the pieces. Further out, the Esperance Stonehenge is a full-scale granite replica built from local stone, an eccentric landmark that is exactly what it sounds like.
Lake Hillier, on Middle Island in the Recherche Archipelago, is a bubblegum-pink lake whose colour results from salt-loving algae and bacteria. It's best seen by scenic flight or boat.