Vanua Levu is Fiji's second largest island, roughly half the size of Viti Levu but with a fraction of the tourists. If you want to see Fiji without the resort crowds, this is where to come. The island is lush and mountainous, with dense rainforest in the interior and some of the best diving in the South Pacific along its southern coast.
Savusavu, the main town on the south coast, sits on a beautiful harbour and has a relaxed, small-town feel. It calls itself the "hidden paradise of Fiji," which is a bit of a stretch, but the setting is genuinely lovely. There are hot springs right in the centre of town, and the surrounding hills are dotted with copra plantations and small farms. The diving and snorkelling around Savusavu Bay and the nearby Namena Marine Reserve are outstanding — the soft coral here is some of the finest anywhere.
Labasa, on the dry northern plain, is the island's largest town and the commercial centre for Fiji's sugar industry. It is a working town rather than a tourist destination, predominantly Indo-Fijian, with busy markets and a different atmosphere from the rest of Fiji. You are unlikely to linger here, but the Sunday market is worth a visit if you are passing through.
The Hibiscus Highway along the southern coast between Savusavu and the Natewa Peninsula is one of Fiji's most scenic drives, winding past coconut groves, small villages, and quiet bays. The Waisali Rainforest Reserve, inland from Savusavu, protects a patch of lowland tropical forest with good walking trails and some of the island's native birdlife.