Nelson sits at the top of the South Island, where the Southern Alps drop down to a wide coastal plain and three national parks press in from different directions. It is one of the sunniest places in New Zealand — the region consistently records the country's highest sunshine hours — which goes some way to explaining the produce, the art, and the general mood of the place.
The three parks define the region as much as the town itself. Abel Tasman National Park runs along the coast to the northwest, all golden beaches and clear water, reachable by water taxi or on foot along the coastal track. Kahurangi is the big one to the west — New Zealand's second-largest park, with the Heaphy Track cutting through it. Nelson Lakes lies to the south, a quieter, more alpine place of beech forest and glacial lakes. Between them they give you a lot to do.
Nelson has a genuine arts scene rather than a manufactured one. More than 350 working artists live in the region, and the density of studios, galleries, and craft workshops is high enough that you can spend a day just wandering between them. The World of WearableArt show started here — it has since moved to Wellington, but the museum in Nelson still houses the spectacular creations from past competitions. The Suter Art Gallery is the main public collection, and the workshop where Jens Hansen forged the One Ring for the Lord of the Rings films is still on Trafalgar Street. The surrounding hills and river valleys have also become known for wine, particularly aromatic whites.
The town itself is small and walkable, with a relaxed provincial feel. The Anglican Christ Church Cathedral sits at the head of Trafalgar Street and acts as the town's visual full stop, while the Provincial Museum and the Saturday morning market on Montgomery Square handle the rest of a wet day. Port Nelson is the largest fishing port in Australasia, which keeps things practical and grounded even as the cafe culture and art scene thrive. It is a good base for the parks and coast, and easy enough to reach — the airport is the fourth busiest in New Zealand.