Cape Palliser

Cape Palliser is the southernmost point of New Zealand's North Island, an hour's drive south of Martinborough on a road that winds along a rugged coastline between the sea and steep hills. The cape is remote by North Island standards — the nearest town of any size is Featherston, some 45 km away — and that remoteness is what makes it worth the journey.

At the cape itself, a colony of around 6,000 New Zealand fur seals hauls out on the rocks year-round. The animals are approachable but not tame; keep a respectful distance and never get between a seal and the sea. The lighthouse above the cape is reached by 250 steep steps and gives a view over Cook Strait toward the South Island mountains. The Putangirua Pinnacles, 15 km back up the road, are the most dramatic geological feature: a landscape of eroded badlands that served as the Paths of the Dead in The Return of the King. A two-to-three-hour return walk takes you through the pinnacles and up to viewpoints above. The road out to the cape is unsealed in sections — fine in a normal car in dry weather, potentially slippery when wet.

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A story
The Putangirua Pinnacles, on the river flat just back from Cape Palliser's coastline, were used as the approach to the Paths of the Dead in Peter Jackson's The Return of the King. The pinnacles — columns of eroded gravel and rock up to 50 meters tall — required almost no digital enhancement; the real landscape was already strange enough. The filming location is marked and a short walk leads through the columns, which creak and shift audibly as they erode.

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