Sanahin — the name means "older than the other one," probably a reference to nearby Haghpat — is a village perched on the dissected plateau high above the Debed gorge, now officially a suburb of Alaverdi but feeling very much like its own place. You can reach it by a cable car from Alaverdi (check schedules — hours are irregular) or by a steep, winding road.
The main attraction is the 10th-century Sanahin Monastery, a walled complex of churches, chapels, and a once-important library. The stonework is beautiful, the setting dramatic, and the place has the quiet weight of real age. In 1996 it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List together with its counterpart at Haghpat.
Most visitors see only the monastery, but it is worth checking the Mikoyan Brothers Museum in the old school building nearby. Artem Mikoyan was the aircraft designer behind the MiG fighter jets — the "M" in the name — and his older brother Anastas was a prominent Soviet politician who served under both Stalin and Khrushchev. Both were born in Sanahin. The enthusiastic guide, a relative of the brothers, speaks Russian and Armenian. Entry is by donation — give at least 100 AMD per person.