Aalst is a mid-sized Flemish city on the Dender river, halfway between Brussels and Ghent. It lives somewhat in the shadow of its more famous neighbours, but it has genuine character and one of the most remarkable carnival traditions in Belgium.
Aalst Carnival, held in the three days before Lent, is a raucous, irreverent affair that has been running for centuries. The event was once on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list but was removed in 2019 after controversy over antisemitic floats. The carnival itself continues undeterred, and its spirit of sharp satire and cheerful chaos remains a defining part of the city's identity. If you visit during carnival season, expect giant puppets, elaborate costumes, onion-throwing, and a general disregard for good taste -- intentionally so.
Beyond carnival, Aalst has a handsome Grote Markt anchored by the Schepenhuis (Aldermen's House), the oldest surviving town hall in the Low Countries, dating to the 13th century. The Sint-Martinuskerk is a fine Gothic church, and the surrounding streets have enough cafes and brown bars to make an afternoon pleasant. Aalst also has a strong beer culture -- look for the local Witkap and other Belgian ales in the bars around the market square. The city is an easy day trip from Brussels or Ghent by train, taking about 20 to 30 minutes from either.