Pézenas rewards slow walking above almost anything else. The entire old town is a listed historic monument, and the density of Renaissance and baroque hôtels particuliers — courtyard palaces behind discreet facades — is extraordinary for a town of this size. Pick any street, push any open gate, and there is usually a carved staircase or a fountain behind it. Guided walks from the tourist office (around €5) are worth doing at least once: the guides know which courtyards to slip into and can put the buildings in historical context that is hard to piece together on your own. Beyond the architecture, there are excellent museums, wine estates a short drive away, and the Molière connection that runs through the whole place like a thread.