Pézenas is a small historic town in the Hérault, roughly halfway between Montpellier and Béziers. Its old town is exceptionally well-preserved — Renaissance and Baroque hôtels particuliers line narrow streets that haven't changed much since the 17th century, when Molière spent time here performing for the local governor. The playwright's brief residency is commemorated enthusiastically, but the town's real charm is simply in wandering: elaborate carved doorways, glimpses into shaded courtyards, and a high concentration of artists' workshops and antique dealers.
The Saturday market, held on the same ground as the medieval trade fairs, is one of the best in Languedoc. The local speciality is the Petit Paté de Pézenas — a small bobbin-shaped meat pie with a British origin story involving Lord Clive, Viceroy of India.