Braunschweig

Lower Saxony city and former Welf ducal seat, centred on Burgplatz and Henry the Lion's legacy.

Braunschweig (Brunswick in English) is the second-largest city in Lower Saxony after Hannover, a historically important seat of the powerful Welf dukes in the Middle Ages and the home city of Henry the Lion — the 12th-century Saxon duke whose bronze lion statue still stands on a pedestal on Burgplatz, the square where he built his castle and cathedral. Almost every major building around Burgplatz and the adjoining Altstadtmarkt dates from the High Middle Ages or the Hanseatic centuries that followed, and together they make up one of the most atmospheric medieval city centres in northern Germany — despite the fact that the Second World War flattened much of what was in between.

Two unusual things set Braunschweig apart from its neighbours. The Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum holds one of the oldest art collections in Europe, open to the public since 1754 — Rembrandts, Vermeer's Girl with a Wine Glass, Holbein, Rubens, Cranach. And the traditional Braunschweig symbol of the lion still looms over the city: you see it carved on shop fronts, cast in bronze on fountains, and built of living ivy in the parks. Combine a half-day here with a day trip to the Harz mountains an hour south, or as an overnight stop on the way between Hannover and Berlin.

Guide

Eating Out

Braunschweig's local specialities are modest but distinctive. Braunschweiger Mumme is a thick, syrup-like malt extract (originally a strong dark beer from the 15th century, now non-alcoholic by law after export regulations changed in the 19th century) — it turns up in sauces and as a flavouring in local cooking. The city is also in asparagus country: in May and June, restaurants around the region serve asparagus with ham and potatoes in a dozen variations.

The Magniviertel has the best concentration of restaurants and traditional German pubs (Kneipen). The lanes around the Magnitorwall and Alte Knochenhauerstraße are where locals eat and drink in the evening. The market square (Altstadtmarkt) and its surrounding streets have more tourist-oriented cafés, but the quality is generally fine.

Guide

Getting Around

The historic centre is compact and best explored on foot: Burgplatz, the Altstadtmarkt, and the Magniviertel are all within ten minutes' walk of each other. The Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum is a 15-minute walk south-east from Burgplatz.

The city has a tram network (operated by BSVG) covering the wider urban area; the main station connects to the centre by tram in about 5 minutes. Tickets are valid across trams and buses. Cycling is well-catered for, with dedicated lanes on most main roads and a flat terrain throughout the city. Bikes can be rented from several points near the Hauptbahnhof.

Guide

Getting There

Braunschweig Hauptbahnhof is on the main ICE line between Hannover and Berlin, with fast trains roughly every half hour. From Hannover it's 35 minutes; from Berlin Hauptbahnhof, around 2 hours. Frankfurt is reachable in under 3 hours with a change at Hannover. Direct trains also run to Hamburg (1 hour 30 minutes).

The city has a small airport (Braunschweig-Wolfsburg Airport) but it handles almost no scheduled passenger flights; all practical air travel uses Hannover Airport, 50 km west, from which regional trains complete the journey in about 40 minutes. By car, the A2 autobahn (Hamburg–Berlin) passes north of the city; the A391 connects to the city centre.

Guide

Things to Do

Braunschweig's historic core is compact and almost entirely walkable. The Burgplatz is the centrepiece — a medieval square containing the cathedral, Dankwarderode Castle, and the famous bronze lion (the original, cast in 1166, is inside the castle; the outdoor one is a 19th-century replica). The atmosphere in the evening, especially when lit, is among the finest in Lower Saxony.

The Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum (closed Mondays) holds one of Europe's oldest public art collections: Vermeer's Girl with a Wine Glass, Rembrandts, Cranach, Holbein, and an exceptional applied arts collection. The city's other museum worth serious time is the Braunschweigisches Landesmuseum, which covers the regional history from the Welf duchy to the present.

For a different angle on the medieval period, walk north from Burgplatz through the lanes of the Magniviertel — the oldest surviving quarter of the city, its half-timbered houses largely intact despite the wartime bombing of the wider city. The Altstadtmarkt square, five minutes west, has the Gothic town hall and the church of St Martin opposite.