The covered street market running south from Lions Square toward the old harbour is the most atmospheric part of Iraklion — a loud, narrow lane packed with stalls selling Cretan olive oil, honey (Cretan thyme honey is exceptional), dried herbs, cheeses, fresh fish, and meat. It has the character of a Levantine souk more than a tourist market. Merchants bargain, older women haul trolleys through the crowd, and the smells of herbs and fresh produce compete with coffee from the nearby cafes.
Go on a weekday morning for the full effect. The market is also a good place to pick up quality food souvenirs: vacuum-packed cheeses, herb mixes, and bottled olive oil all travel well.