Paleochora is the main village on Crete's remote southwestern coast, a low-key resort town spread across a narrow peninsula with a long sandy beach (Pachia Ammos) on its western side and a quieter pebbly beach on the east. Above the village stand the ruins of Kastel Selino, a 13th-century Venetian castle that gives the place its name — Paleochora means "old town." Entry to the castle is free, and the climb rewards you with views over both beaches and out across the Libyan Sea.
The village sits about 70 kilometres southwest of Hania, roughly 90 minutes by car or bus over the spectacular mountain road across the Selino plateau. It is far enough from the airports and the north-coast resorts to keep its character: tavernas line the harbour, the pace is slow, and in the evening the main street is closed to traffic and given over to diners and strollers. Out of high season it can feel almost sleepy.
Paleochora makes an excellent base for the roadless southwest coast. A passenger ferry runs east in summer to Sougia, Agia Roumeli (the sea exit from the Samaria Gorge), and Hora Sfakion, which makes it possible to combine a gorge hike with a boat journey along a coast that has no road. Walkers can also pick up the E4 coastal path, and day boats run out to the offshore islet of Elafonisi with its pink sand and turquoise lagoon.
Most travellers come for a slower, beach-focused few days rather than a single afternoon, but it works as a long day trip from Hania too. Bring sturdy shoes if you plan to walk any of the coast path, and book ahead in July and August when the village fills up with returning regulars.