The classic old-men's kafenio on the square — wooden chairs, a tiled stove, a row of bottles behind the counter — and one of the few places in town that has not been freshened up for tourists. Order a Greek coffee, a tsipouro and a small plate of cheese, and watch the square's slow choreography of arrivals and departures.
It is on the upper terrace, on the corner of the road that leads to the gallery. Cash only.