Lehel Market

Boldly coloured covered market in District XIII, a working local alternative to the tourist Great Market Hall

The Lehel Market (Lehel Csarnok) is the local, unvarnished counterpoint to the grand Great Market Hall across the river. Its 2002 building is divisive — a riot of clashing colours and odd angles by architect László Rajk that looks like a child's drawing of a ship — but inside it is a genuine neighbourhood market where District XIII residents buy their produce, meat, cheese, and pickles.

Come for the everyday Budapest you do not see downtown: butchers and greengrocers, cheap and excellent lángos and stuffed cabbage at the food stalls upstairs, and not a souvenir in sight. It is a short walk east of Pozsonyi út.

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