Reggio Emilia sits inside the production zone of Parmigiano-Reggiano — this is where the cheese is made and aged, and it features on every table in every form imaginable. The local pasta tradition is strong too: cappelletti in broth, tortelli with ricotta and spinach, and tagliatelle with proper slow-cooked ragù. Lambrusco is the local wine, sparkling and red, and better than its supermarket reputation suggests when served chilled with cured meats and aged cheese.