Simbruini Mountains town near Rome, shaped by Nero's retreat and Saint Benedict's cliffside monasteries.
Subiaco is a small town about 70 km east of Rome, tucked into a valley of the Simbruini Mountains. It has been a favourite retreat for more than two millennia: Nero built himself a villa here after the fire of Rome, and Saint Benedict came here to live as a hermit in the sixth century, founding the monastic tradition that would shape medieval Europe.
The main attractions are the two monasteries just outside town. The Convento di Santa Scolastica is the older — a working Benedictine monastery with three beautiful cloisters, one Romanesque, one Gothic, one Renaissance. Further up the hill, the Sacro Speco (Holy Cave) is a monastery complex built dramatically into the cliff face around the grotto where Saint Benedict lived. Its medieval frescoes are extraordinary.
In town, the Rocca Abbaziale — the fortress of the Borgia family — crowns the highest point of the medieval centre, and the church of San Francesco is worth a visit. You will notice that Nero's villa is missing from the list: its columns and marble were long ago scattered across all the other buildings in town.
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Getting There
Subiaco is 70 km east of Rome, about 90 minutes by public transport. COTRAL buses run from Ponte Mammolo (Line B metro) roughly every hour, with more frequent services on weekdays. The journey takes around 75–90 minutes and costs a few euros. There is no train service.
By car, take the A24 motorway east from Rome and exit at Vicovaro-Mandela, then follow the SS5 along the Aniene valley. Parking is available on the outskirts of the town centre; the roads within the medieval core are narrow.
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When to Go
Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are the best times to visit. Temperatures are mild, the Aniene valley is green, and the rose garden at Sacro Speco is at its best in May and June. Summer weekends bring day-trippers from Rome and can feel crowded around the monasteries; weekday visits are significantly quieter even in July.
Winter is cold and the mountains may have snow above 1,000 metres, but the town and monasteries remain open and are virtually tourist-free. The light on the cliff face at Sacro Speco in low winter sun is remarkable.
The feast of Saint Benedict (11 July) is celebrated with a procession and mass at Santa Scolastica that draws pilgrims from across Italy.