Clandestino is Moreno Cedroni's beach restaurant on Portonovo, the more casual sibling of his Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigallia. The menu is unapologetically experimental: raw and lightly cured Adriatic fish dressed in vinaigrettes and emulsions that take cues from Japan, Peru and the Marche. Eat barefoot on the deck; pair with Verdicchio.
Open spring to autumn; bookings open online and close fast in August.