Adriatic seafood is the local cuisine: brodetto (a tomatoey fish stew traditionally cooked nine ways from Ancona to Vasto), grilled fish, stoccafisso all'anconetana, and above all moscioli — the wild Portonovo mussels — eaten raw, grilled, or in a quick tomato sauce over linguine. Whites from Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are the natural pairing.